Pages 201–204
Abstract
Research summary supplied by the authors
In response to the growing demand for environmentally sustainable, resource- efficient leather processing technologies, this study presents the development of a novel amphoteric polymeric fatliquor synthesized from allyltrimethylammonium bromide (ATMA) via free-radical polymerization. The designed polymer possesses a dual ionic architecture incorporating cationic, anionic, and hydrophobic functionalities, enabling adaptive interactions with collagen across varying pH conditions. Comprehensive structural characterization using FTIR, 1H NMR, GPC, and ESIMS confirmed successful polymer formation and controlled molecular architecture. The amphoteric nature of the polymer facilitates pH-responsive binding with collagen, ensuring uniform penetration during processing and enhanced fixation during posttanning. The efficiency of fatliquoring was systematically evaluated and compared in both chrometanned and chrome-free tanned leather systems to establish the versatility of the developed polymer. When applied to chrome-tanned leather, the developed fatliquor demonstrated a significantly higher uptake (85.2%) compared to conventional fatliquoring systems (68.7%). This improved fixation translated into superior leather performance, tensile strength (32.25 N/mm², representing a 46.7% increase), and notable improvements in softness and fullness, with a softness index of 8.3 compared to 6.1 for the control. Importantly, the improved exhaustion efficiency resulted in a marked reduction in effluent load, with chemical oxygen demand (COD) decreasing from approximately 42,000 mg/L to 32,000 mg/L, highlighting the environmental advantage of the process. Comparable enhancements in physical and environmental performance were also observed in chrome-free leather systems, further validating the polymer’s applicability across tanning technologies. Overall, this work introduces an innovative, scalable, and eco-efficient fatliquoring technology that integrates functional polymer design with sustainable leather processing, making a meaningful contribution to next-generation green manufacturing practices in the leather industry.