Congress paper

Leather Dyeing towards Sustainability: The Role of Natural Colorants

13th AICLST Congress · 2026 · TI-99-P

Karthik Vijayarangana,c, Mohammed Abu Javidb,c, Vijayakanth Nandhuc, Lakshmanan Akashc; Lokeshc, Anandhan Punitha Velmurugana,c

Pages 475–478

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Abstract

Research summary supplied by the authors

Growing environmental concerns and strict regulation on the use of synthetic dyes have increased interest in eco-friendly and sustainable alternatives for leather processing. Natural dyes derived from plant sources offer a biodegradable, non-toxic, and renewable option for coloration of leather. In the present study, Marigold (Tagetes erecta) flowers were selected as a natural dye source to their high pigment content, mainly carotenoids and flavonoids, which impart yellow to orange shades. The dye was extracted from dried marigold flower petals using an aqueous extraction method under controlled temperatures and time conditions. The extracted dye-solution was applied to chrome tanned and vegetable-tanned leather samples using conventional dyeing techniques adopted in leather processing. To improve dye uptake and fixation, suitable mordants were employed during the dying process. The dyed leather samples were evaluated for dye penetration, brilliancy, depth and shade uniformity. Cross-sectional analysis was carried out to study the depth of dye penetration, while color strength and levelness were assessed by visual and instrumental methods. In addition, fastness properties such wash and rub fastness were examined to determine the suitability of marigold dye for leather applications. The results indicate that marigold dye exhibits good penetration and acceptable color uniformity in leather, particularly when appropriate mordanting techniques are used. This study demonstrates the marigold dye can be a promising natural colorant for leather, contributing to sustainable and environmentally friendly leather processing practices.